I've been living in France for 30 years now, after joining up with French friends I had met in Ireland. I first lived in the south, in Montpellier, where I began learning French (like a child, using my ears), and I worked the grape picking two seasons. I traveled extensively between Spain & Italy around the south of France, & later to Strasbourg, Lyon, ... before setting up home in Paris. Having begun my life here with French friends was a huge advantage as far as "penetrating", and about the only time I ever speak English anymore is down at my local Irish pub. I played guitar in the Metro (Paris subway) for two years, and did a lot of construction, etc.; and now have a bit more stable life. As others have said, don't judge France by a Paris visit - get out & about. This country has a huge mix of cultures (music, food, alcohols, idioms,...), and is also evolving rapidly. It's a great adventure - and nowhere near as cold or snobbish as some think after a short visit. There are a lot of very good musicians, but not a real music scene as evident as in Ireland, US, Spain,...
For any that are tempted to come over - in spite of the Euro/dollar fiasco, I wish you a good trip.
In Vino Veritas !!!!!
aip