R/E/P Community

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10
 on: February 07, 2020, 05:06:52 pm 
Started by Eddie Eagle - Last post by Eddie Eagle
Here's a pic of that spent reverb tank. Got a new one and had the amp pots cleaned and vibrato fixed stuff back into good shape.
The Pro Reverb sounds great again.

 on: February 07, 2020, 04:25:43 pm 
Started by klaus - Last post by Derek Reese Music
i used the upper portion of the stocking as it fell slightly thicker than the leg area which was very light in thickness.
I will do some testing :-)
Thank you Klaus.

 on: February 07, 2020, 03:29:00 pm 
Started by everettmoran - Last post by everettmoran
That worked. Thanks. What holds the female 6 pin connector to the chassis? Also, do you have a source for a schematic for this power supply, as well as the pin out configuration?


 on: February 07, 2020, 02:55:24 pm 
Started by klaus - Last post by Derek Reese Music
Sounds like what i did :-)

 on: February 07, 2020, 02:19:04 pm 
Started by klaus - Last post by klaus
What I did:
Repurposed the lower section of an old plastic mic clip, the part of the swivel that contains the female threads for the mic stand mount which also contains the hinge mechanism onto which I mounted the crochet hoop.

 on: February 07, 2020, 10:41:19 am 
Started by klaus - Last post by Derek Reese Music
Good morning, I am about to attempt making my own pop filter with the wooden ring you mentioned.
So I will put two layers on the ring, but how are you attaching the mic clip so I can mount it on my mic stand ?
Maybe a clip with teeth that also has threads on the opposite end to mount to a stand ?
After you kindly revived my capsule Im not taking any chances with spit lol

 on: February 03, 2020, 10:16:42 am 
Started by fffaustino - Last post by fffaustino
Hi again,

thanks so much Uwe and Klaus, for all the info, i really appreciated it. Sorry to say that I had not read it until this morning, after working on my psu...this is what i did;

I checked all the components carefully and discover that R3 and R4 were 10k instead of the 5k of the original schematic. I swapped them for two 8.2 kohms resistors and now i have gotten 119,5 at B+.
I really dont know if i have acted correctly but the fact is that B+ is nearer from its ideal value now.

Many thanks again and let me know if i should correct something..


 on: February 02, 2020, 08:14:43 pm 
Started by everettmoran - Last post by klaus
When an older power supply had not been opened in years/decades, it sometimes takes more than just removal of the four screws.

Turn the unit upside down, insert a thin screwdriver into the gap formed between cover and base and, going around the two seems, carefully crack any seal formed by dirt or possibly leaky Stabilyt/NiCad cells.

You cannot break the gap open, as there are four lips welded to the inside of the cover that clamp down on the base of the unit, which keep the cover flush with the base. But you can move the cover slightly up by going around the perimeter of the base plate with the screwdriver and slightly leveraging the edge of the cover upwards. Then yank on the handle to lift off the cover. That should do it.

 on: February 02, 2020, 04:44:39 pm 
Started by everettmoran - Last post by everettmoran
I need to get inside the above captioned power supply to reseat the output connector to the KM54, but cannot for the life of me figure out how to open the thing. It looks like the metal cover should pull straight up once the screws are removed, but the cover has not loosened at all. Does anyone have experience with this particular supply? Klaus?

 on: February 02, 2020, 01:29:17 pm 
Started by fffaustino - Last post by klaus
The SK73t and N52t heater voltage section have not much in common in components and circuitry. Anything with a circuit board that has an imprint like "SK73t" should have a circuit diagram somewhere...

Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 10