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 1 
 on: Today at 12:11:46 am 
Started by Derek Samuel Reese - Last post by klaus
Since the deterioration seems to arrest at some point, how does one find out what stage of deterioration it is in at the present moment?
The seller bought this capsule four years ago, showed me pictures of the original sale and the capsule looked the same.
Two different pictures at different angles, four years apart:

Looking again more closely: the two pictures (see reply #12) clearly show continuing deterioration since 2017.

 2 
 on: January 21, 2021, 09:30:23 am 
Started by J. Mike Perkins - Last post by Derek Samuel Reese
I would love to know what the two letters and two numbers represent on an original u67 brass capsule ?
maybe the letters were the initials of the person testing the capsule ? but the numbers ? I'm just guessing lol
I realize that the brass capsule's were produced from 1961-1964 but I kinds of stinks that you don't know if you bought a 1961 or 1963 brass capsule, so each capsule is within a four year mystery ?

 3 
 on: January 19, 2021, 01:41:19 pm 
Started by DanDan - Last post by DanDan
https://www.facebook.com/meg.lee.chin/posts/10159275812384155

 4 
 on: January 18, 2021, 08:05:00 pm 
Started by Derek Samuel Reese - Last post by Derek Samuel Reese
I decided to take the chance and do this myself.
I have to learn somewhere, so I convinced myself that I could ruin this capsule, and sat with this idea for a few hours.

I decided to practice on the capsule that is already installed. I switched the capsule around.
Getting the capsule out of the basket was easy as I have done this before.
Then i realized that to remove the soldered wires all I have to do is lightly tap the already soldered wires with my new solder iron and they all came apart with ease.

Removing the screws was even easier but working in the space of a small capsule made me nervous lol but I did it, switched it around and didn't even need to use new solder to reattach the wires because there was already a small amount present on the wire so it was easy.
The fear was the biggest part but after I got over that, it was smooth sailing.

The enjoyment I got after doing this was really awesome: I loved the fact that I was able to do this myself.

Maybe I can convince Klaus to help me along my journey of understanding the inner workings of the U67 when he isn't busy.
Felt wonderful !
I wanted to add that I used a credit card to guard the capsule as I soldered :-)

 5 
 on: January 17, 2021, 08:43:33 am 
Started by Derek Samuel Reese - Last post by Derek Samuel Reese
I couldn't agree more, if this were a few wires that were far away from a delicate capsule that would be different.
The only person I will allow to touch my u67 is Mr Klaus, I unfortunately had a terrible experience with Tom.

 6 
 on: January 15, 2021, 10:34:06 am 
Started by Derek Samuel Reese - Last post by David Satz
Two things stand out to me about this deal.

[1] OF COURSE the seller says that it's a fantastic-sounding capsule. There's even a chance that he believes what he's telling you. But I don't think it's predictable whether you'll agree with him or not if you buy the capsule. You may have very different ideas of what you want the microphone to sound like. Then you'd have no return privilege, and the capsule might be hard for you to resell, for exactly the reasons you are hesitant to buy it--only more so (the next customer would have to wonder why you don't want to keep it).

[2] You really do face some risk by trying to install the capsule yourself. The capsule _head_ of the U 67 (and related models) was designed to be replaced as a unit by someone without special repair skills--but not the capsule within the head.

I actually used to repair hi-fi equipment for a living, decades ago, and I got to be pretty good with a soldering iron for everyday work on consumer stereo equipment. But I don't do my own repairs on microphones or tape recorders! I want someone with lots of specific experience to be responsible for that--preferably the manufacturer. For Neumann microphones in the NYC area (where I live, too), an excellent alternative to Sennheiser USA, should you want one, is Tom Onofrio (onofriothomas@sbcglobal.net).

 7 
 on: January 14, 2021, 12:55:30 pm 
Started by rdraudio - Last post by klaus
You don't need to design and install a whole new circuit section just to reduce B+ by a small amount.
Just add either a shunt after C3 or series resistor. As the voltage reduction in your case is small, I would opt for an inline resistor.

(Unless someone has another simple and better idea)

 8 
 on: January 14, 2021, 10:40:52 am 
Started by rdraudio - Last post by rdraudio
I followed C3 +, and there is none.  As there is no R5, R10, or R11, would I need to build this little network and install all 3?  Doesn't seem to be an accurate schematic for this rev of the board.

 9 
 on: January 14, 2021, 04:55:07 am 
Started by rdraudio - Last post by klaus
Remove the Stabilyt cells, clean up the mess, and follow Uwe Sattler's recommended solid state replacement stabilization:
https://repforums.prosoundweb.com/index.php/topic,37395.msg538543.html#msg538543

 10 
 on: January 14, 2021, 04:49:06 am 
Started by rdraudio - Last post by klaus
Follow the (+) of C3 and look for a buffer resistor between it and the B+ output. Might be there under a different parts number. If there is none, install one.

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