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[r.baby]

Okidoki, I'm really getting the hang of this old gear maintenance thing now! It's ... FUN!

Got an old Leslie 147. It's humming and fuzzing and clicking and not behaving very well at all. Checked its voltages, and lo and behold, they are all too low (by as much as 30-50%), so new valves are coming in and I'm about to embark on a recapping adventure!

Here's the question, though: Am I correct in assuming that the six 0.1 uF caps (the red ones and the ones circled with pink in the picture attached - which I got from an internet site, btw, it's not MY leslie) should be exchanged with normal WIMA types? And that the sprague multi-cap (30, 30, 30 and 10 uF at 475V) should be bodged up by three 47uF and one 10uF electrolytic caps?



r.baby

[r.baby]

Here's the schematics ...

[Brian Roth]

All of the electrolytics are suspects (including the 200 @ 50) as well as the 0.1 uF caps connected around the  motor windings.

Bri

[r.baby]

Brian Roth wrote on Sat, 03 September 2005 17:45

All of the electrolytics are suspects (including the 200 @ 50) as well as the 0.1 uF caps connected around the  motor windings. Bri

MY HERO!!

Hi Bri,

yeah, that's what I thought too. Just to clarify: Bodging a replacement for the sprague multi-cap out of 4 seperate electrolytics is perfectly acceptable, right?

Looking forward to getting this one in proper shape!

Best regards,

r.baby

[Dan Kennedy]

I just got done doing one, I emptied out the can, a little heat gun work, nothing tough, and put the radial leaded replacements back in and "Goop"ed them in place, replaced the fiberboard and soldered the leads to the pins, then put everything back in place. The unit looks and works like new.

[Brian Roth]

Dan, it's been awhile since I looked at one of those cans, but I thought the aluminum was somehow "crimped" around the fiber board base insulator.  How did you get the can open enough to remove the base insulator?

R. Baby, in more than a few cases, I used regular lytics soldered in place under the chassis.  Modern lytics are very compact compared to vintage ones, so there is usually room in the chassis to fit modern caps.

Bri

[r.baby]

Just a little follow up:

I recapped it all, got new tubes, and had a guy who actually knows what he's doing relube it. I also put a new relais in instead of the old ones which was very noisy.

The net result?

IT'S AWESOME!! It's SO much more quiet than before, and it just SOUNDS way better!! I'm one happy Leslie owner now. I wonder if I should give my Hammond a recap too?


Thanks for all your help, guys!

x x x


r.baby

[Dan Kennedy]

Kinda peeled it up with a small chisel if I remember right. Then hammered it back over a bit shorter upon finishing it up. Still looked good. Funny, it's only a couple of months ago, and yet already hazy...

[Brian Roth]

Dan, I'll give that a try on some "scrap" cans I have sitting in a box here.  When you heated the innards of the old cap, did it emit any noxious fumes or ooze any nasty glop?

Bri

[jackson]

CE Distribution sells these caps new.  Why clouge a bunch together when you can do it right for under $30.

http://www.cedist.com
part number C-EC30-30-30-10   $22.95

CE Distribution also has other wear parts for the leslie.