0dbfs wrote on Wed, 03 February 2010 07:08 |
Bill,
Thanks! I just wanted to add some details to what you had already explained and get to a better point of personal understanding.
I've got to build some control room walls soon which have a hall and lounge space on either side of the CR (and an adjacent vocal booth) so I might try this out to even out the LF response of the room. The front and back walls are exterior/fixed though and I need to keep as much space as possible. I might consider losing 5 or six inches on each the front/back as well to provide an exit path for the LF using this method to address the modes related to that dimension. I wasn't going to do anything special with these walls (like double drywall, RW3 in the cavities, etc. Except interior treatments) in this room but this potentially sounds like a reasonable and inexpensive method to even out room mode issues.
My biggest concern at this point is how to prevent (rather minimize) LF from coming into the room from the surrounding spaces. It might not be much of an issue in this case because the building is stand-alone, set back, and physically isolated by distance. Plus it would get in anyway via normal structure coupling.
Best, j
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Hey Jonathan,
Two things.
First, I am wildly speculating on the feasibility of drilling holes in walls to create a series of Helmholtz absorbers coincident with standing waves in a rectangular room. As Fran said, it might work, but no guarantees. There are a LOT of variables to work out. Also, you will need a program to create the patterns IMO, although I guess it could be done with a tape measure and sharpie. It hurts my brain to think about it though.
Having a program calculate a 3D environment and then either project the dots on the wall or print out hundreds of sheets of paper (or large drafting sheets) that could be pasted on the wall and drilled through would be so much easier to implement. (I subcontract for NASA so these kind of engineering challenges seem reasonably doable.) But it's a long way from speculating about it to actually implementing it.
Second, regarding the low freq isolation. You have a lot better consultants here than me! If it were my project, I would do the typical things of cutting and sealing the slab, (if possible), floating the floor and building the most rigid wall structure I could afford (money and space).
The only thing I might add, and I have done this before with a bit of success, is to build bass traps on the HALLWAY side of the walls. I did this once by mounting sealed and damped masonite panels on the walls of a hallway between rooms. By attempting to absorb the bottom BEFORE it entered the room, I was able to use the space in the halls to reduce the trapping needed in the rooms. I covered these panels with large colorful graphics and it looked pretty good. Of course this won't really help much right next to an exterior wall, so back to Mass, isolation and insulation.
Bill