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[RKrizman]

I've seen people take the hard cover that covers the top of the Rhodes (not the curved plastic cover, but the covered wood one that hinges on for when you move it) and cut it so that the keys are exposed when the top is on.  Then take that piece you cut off and hinge it onto the part you cut it off of, so you can close it up when you move it.  Hard to describe but hopefully simple to visualize.  Then put some shielding on the inside of the cover and stack anything you want on top.

-R

[C.Cash]

RKrizman wrote on Mon, 03 August 2009 16:43

I've seen people take the hard cover that covers the top of the Rhodes (not the curved plastic cover, but the covered wood one that hinges on for when you move it) and cut it so that the keys are exposed when the top is on.  Then take that piece you cut off and hinge it onto the part you cut it off of, so you can close it up when you move it.  Hard to describe but hopefully simple to visualize.  Then put some shielding on the inside of the cover and stack anything you want on top. -R

That's a great idea!

What would be good for shielding?

Thanks.

[rankus]

C.Cash wrote on Mon, 03 August 2009 15:26

What would be good for shielding? Thanks.

Thin gauge steel.

[Leslie Hammond]

I built this in a few minutes 15 years ago. It ain't pretty, but it works. (The next post has another picture).

[Leslie Hammond]

[compasspnt]

Les, you may have to change your name to Wurli Rhodes.

[phantom309]

C.Cash wrote on Mon, 03 August 2009 16:26

RKrizman wrote on Mon, 03 August 2009 16:43 I've seen people take the hard cover that covers the top of the Rhodes (not the curved plastic cover, but the covered wood one that hinges on for when you move it) and cut it so that the keys are exposed when the top is on.  Then take that piece you cut off and hinge it onto the part you cut it off of, so you can close it up when you move it.  Hard to describe but hopefully simple to visualize.  Then put some shielding on the inside of the cover and stack anything you want on top. -R That's a great idea! What would be good for shielding? Thanks.

I've used this stuff to great effect:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_pickups/Supplies:_S hielding/Conductive_Shielding_Paint.html

It's a great website too.

The thin steel sheet sounds like a cheaper option though...you could use some 3m spray on adhesive.

[C.Cash]

Leslie Hammond wrote on Tue, 04 August 2009 00:36

I built this in a few minutes 15 years ago. It ain't pretty, but it works. (The next post has another picture).

  Are the 3 brackets just resting down inside the Rhodes?
AND do you still have the sustain pedal still hooked up, was the original cable long enough?

Thanks.

[Leslie Hammond]

Yes, the brackets are just shoved down into the Rhodes. The side brackets rest on the blocks of wood that the harp is bolted down to. The middle bracket sits on the bottom of the base and has a piece of wood to adjust for the added height of the side brackets.

The pedal is unconnected. If you want to play fancy, you gotta take it down.

[Bill_Urick]

Leslie Hammond wrote on Tue, 04 August 2009 22:29

The pedal is unconnected. If you want to play fancy, you gotta take it down.

Got my wurli without the pedal. Haven't missed it yet.

Sustain is overrated.