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Author Topic: Cheap sound isolation, possible?  (Read 1423 times)

phist

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Cheap sound isolation, possible?
« on: October 03, 2007, 10:49:46 am »

We have a large space, which is divided into smallish offices. Now the sound isolation from room to room is quite nonexistent. We'd like to have some isolation from room to room as cheaply as possible. What would you suggest? The rooms will be used for music (no live instruments, moderate volumes) and video editing.

Is the project doable? What options do we have? It should be a basic small project, it can't last for very many weeks and things like floating rooms are out of the question. If needed, I can upload a picture of the dimensions of the rooms.

Thanks in advance!

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gullfo

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Re: Cheap sound isolation, possible?
« Reply #1 on: October 03, 2007, 09:35:28 pm »

it probably would help to see a floor plan as well as understand how things are constructed. also, what options do you have? can you tear open walls to add additional mass and RC? etc...

if its regular partition walls built on a wood stud frame wall, you could potentially remove one of the layers of drywall to expose the frame, add 100mm pink insulation, resilient channel. if its steel stud, you probably don't need RC but you'll still want to add the insulation.

then add 2 layers of 16mm drywall to each side, caulking and sealing. you need to do something similar to the ceilings - staggering the wall-celing drywall to get the maximum seal. remember to seal electrical outlets and switches.

HVAC will also play a role as it may need some additional bends and liner in the duct to reduce sound transfer between rooms. since you're effectively sealing the rooms, you want to make sure you have a return duct in each room as well as supply...

lighting should be replaced with track lights to reduce holes in the ceiling, or if you need to keep any recessed lighting, add additional drywall "boxes" around them to seal them off.

any doors between offices should be sealed so the entries are on hallway instead (if possible). shared doors should be solid core and doubled up - use good seals - like magnetic or exterior grade.

this should give you effectively an STC-50 or around 35-40db TL between rooms.

this should improve your isolation quite a bit using standard construction materials and in a building code friendly way. all of this is predicated on a structural engineer telling you the walls and ceilings will support the additional mass...

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Glenn Stanton

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C.Cash

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Re: Cheap sound isolation, possible?
« Reply #2 on: October 08, 2007, 03:48:02 pm »

Whats the best way to seal eletrical outlets and switches?
Thanks,
Clifford.
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franman

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Re: Cheap sound isolation, possible?
« Reply #3 on: October 16, 2007, 10:21:53 pm »

The best way to seal at switches and outlets (electrical boxes) on non-treated drywall partitions is to make them "surface mounted" style... Only penetrate the drywall with a small, caulked hole for the BX.. seal it tight. Then surface mount a 1900 style elec box. You can add a nice 2" deep wood trim around it. We do this on type budget projects all the time.

If you have to try and seal around existing flush mounted boxes, then take off the covers, and caulk the box to the drywall. (Careful not to fill the cover or device mounting holes with caulk)... There is a company that makes a damped tar like sheeting that you can 'lag' the back of the boxes with, but at that point you could just take em out and surface mount em.. It's meant to be used at the time the box is installed. I can't find the name (or link).. damn...

I just hate building double drywall partitions (on both sides of studs) and cutting 4x4 holes for elec boxes in em!! I always spec surface mounted boxes with a detail for the trim, when we have to have boxes on non-treated drywall partitions in studio rooms.
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