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[bigaudioblowhard]

Am just about to order this

 http://www.atsacoustics.com/item--Burlap-Fabric-56-Inch-Wide --1009.html

and glue it to three panels of 705 to create a 4' X 6' cloud. I'm assuming I just use that

spray on 3M contact cement? Any ideas about doing this appreciated.

Bab

[Tom C]

bigaudioblowhard wrote on Mon, 11 June 2007 18:15

Am just about to order this   http://www.atsacoustics.com/item--Burlap-Fabric-56-Inch-Wide --1009.html and glue it to three panels of 705 to create a 4' X 6' cloud. I'm assuming I just use that spray on 3M contact cement? Any ideas about doing this appreciated. Bab

Besides that it doesn't need to be 'special acoustic fabric' (most
'normal' fabric will do just fine for a fraction of the costs) your
panels will look much better when you do a wooden frame around
them and stretch the fabric around that frame.
The traps in the photo below (back, side, corner and ceiling) are
all done this way.

Tom

[LSilva]

I built a handful of absorbers wrapped in burlap not too long ago.

I tried the spray-on stuff, and it worked, but not all that great. To be honest though, I used the cheapest spray-on adhesive I could find.  The $13 per can 3M stuff might be better than what I used.

I ended up using some fabric glue that came out of squeeze bottle for some and then a glue gun for the rest. The glue gun worked a little better for me since it dried quicker.

Lou

[Devin Knutson]

Bear in mind that many spay adhesives are highly flammable, and some may even be classifed as accelerants in some states.  Depending upon your local fire code, using a significant amount of this stuff could have a profound effect on the state of your fire insurance should anything ever happen.

[franman]

I have to agree with both Tom and Sidechain... Wood frames will improve the appearance of your panels.. much tighter look. To "test" a fabric, I wrap some around my head. If you can't hear any attentuation of the high freq, then the fabric is acoustically transparent. If the HF sounds attenuated, then the fabric is going to reflect some HF. Avoid backed fabrics....

The flamability of glue could be an issue should (heaven forbid) and insurance claim be required.... as could the flame spread rating of the fabric itself. This is one the key reasons (discussed at our acoustics panel at TOC this week) to use a 'known' quantity in the fabric. Guilford FR701 (the basic standard) is about $16-17 per linear yard which is 66" wide... not cheap, but not expensive.

You can go and buy fabric at any local fabric store that is acoustically transparent, but there is the flame spread issue. If you are concerned about the possible insurance ramifications look for Class A ASTM Flame spread rating.

[Ian Visible]

Could a bag be fabricated out of the fabric (perhaps even using that iron-on seam stuff to avoid sewing) into which the fluffy stuff could just be stuffed? Avoids any DIY incompetence and gets you in touch with your feminine side.

[tom eaton]

Like these?

http://www.readyacoustics.com/index.php?go=products.proddeta ils&prod=RT424B

t

[Ready Acoustics]

Hey,

Thanks for mentioning Ready Acoustics.

The facts are that almost any fabric will do fine for acoustical absorbers, even thick painter's canvas. Consider using a fabric YOU like. Remember, you're the one looking at it and it might as well be something you enjoy seeing. Fabric that offers even modest resistance (when held near your mouth and blown through) should keep acoustic insulation fibers in, and allow sound to penetrate.


You can make your own acoustic treatments for about $35 using this tutorial as a guide: Bass Traps Tutorial

This is based on the StudioTips Corner Absorber created years ago and can be found in it's original form here: http://forum.studiotips.com

I hope it helps.


Cheers,

Joel DuBay
www.readyacoustics.com

[jfrigo]

Careful when glueing fabric to semi-rigid insulation. If you create a barrier with the glue, and close up the holes or spaces in the fiber, you lose the porous nature of the 703 or 705 'glass and lose your frictional absorption characteristics rendering the panel ineffective. For this reason we usually stretch the fabric over the 'glass and attach it to a frame somehow, or to the back.

[bigaudioblowhard]

jfrigo wrote on Thu, 14 June 2007 00:46

Careful when glueing fabric to semi-rigid insulation. If you create a barrier with the glue, and close up the holes or spaces in the fiber, you lose the porous nature of the 703 or 705 'glass and lose your frictional absorption characteristics rendering the panel ineffective. For this reason we usually stretch the fabric over the 'glass and attach it to a frame somehow, or to the back.

Yes, thanks for bringing this to my attention. I'm copying a cloud I recently saw installed which had the burlap glued directly to the 705 around the edges and about 3 inches across the back (top, above), which left the bare fiberglass top mostly exposed. No frames. It looked very neat, and was lightweight enough to suspend easily. Angle bar aluminum was used to connect the fabric covered panels and  hook to light wire going to the ceiling. I think the trick will be to successfully glue the fabric to the bare 705.

bab

[jfrigo]

bigaudioblowhard wrote on Thu, 14 June 2007 03:50

jfrigo wrote on Thu, 14 June 2007 00:46 Careful when glueing fabric to semi-rigid insulation. If you create a barrier with the glue, and close up the holes or spaces in the fiber, you lose the porous nature of the 703 or 705 'glass and lose your frictional absorption characteristics rendering the panel ineffective. For this reason we usually stretch the fabric over the 'glass and attach it to a frame somehow, or to the back. Yes, thanks for bringing this to my attention. I'm copying a cloud I recently saw installed which had the burlap glued directly to the 705 around the edges and about 3 inches across the back (top, above), which left the bare fiberglass top mostly exposed. No frames. It looked very neat, and was lightweight enough to suspend easily. Angle bar aluminum was used to connect the fabric covered panels and  hook to light wire going to the ceiling. I think the trick will be to successfully glue the fabric to the bare 705. bab

Sometimes manufacturers chemically harden the edges. You could use a thin strip of wood (like a finish moulding) glued around the edges of the 705 under the fabric just to maintain the sharpness of the edge after you cover it.

You can also use the aluminum edging that drywallers use to maintain the sharp corners in walls. This works well as it is two sided and, in addition to creating a nice, defined edge, can provide additional surface area behind view for gluing the fabric.

[LSilva]

jfrigo wrote on Thu, 14 June 2007 11:22

You can also use the aluminum edging that drywallers use to maintain the sharp corners in walls. This works well as it is two sided and, in addition to creating a nice, defined edge, can provide additional surface area behind view for gluing the fabric.

That's a brilliant idea!

I wish I hadn't built all my absobers already...

Lou