Hello,
18watt.com has a thread on mods for this little beast that is like 200 pages.
I think the MM mod kit is insanely priced, the resistor values are not really hitting the mark, there is a better and cheaper way to improve upon or "fix the problems" of the VJ.
Spend $10.00 on resistors and caps, and $35.oo for a Hammond 125DSE, and you'll be very happy.
Here are pretty much all the mods from 18watt.com:
R1 68K stock, change to 1M. Along with R2, creates a voltage divider that determines how much input signal gets into the amp. Stock only allows half of the signal to enter.
R2 68K stock, change to 10K or leave at 68K with R1 at 1M.
See R1
R5 220K stock, Could replace with a 500K pot for Master Volume Control
R6 1M stock, Short out, or use 100k for less gain 100K Along with R7, creates voltage divider for input to second gain stage.
R7 1M stock, change to 91K – or 100k if R6=100k used. 100K Replace with 250K or 500K pot for simple Gain control. Raising the value increases max gain.
R8 2.2K stock, change to 1K or 1.5. 12ax7 bias for first gain stage.
R9 2.2K stock, change to 620 to 820 or 1.5K. 12ax7 bias - Larger values will bias the 2nd preamp stage cleaner, but you shouldn't go any higher than about 1.8k, as then it will start to distort more. 1.5k biases both preamp stages very neutrally for minimum distortion. Lower values provide more "crunch".
R10 220 stock, change to 1K 3 Watt. Reduces the B+ voltage looking for 300-310 volts at EL 84 plate pin 7 (Hint: Two 5 Watt 470 ohm in series put voltage right there on mine)
R14 220 stock, change to 240-270 1watt. Reduces the EL84s dissipation - stock is over the limit of 12 Watts (Hint: can add an 18 ohm or 22 ohm in series , or put 2 470's in parallel,if you can't find a 240).
R15 1.5K stock, change to 5.6K to 10K EL84 Grid. Larger values more high end roll off.
C1 .022uf, use Mallory 150's or Orange Drops Coupling cap - Mallory's warmer Marshall tone, Orange Drops sharper Fender like tone.
C2 .022uf, use Mallory 150's or Orange Drops Coupling cap - Mallory's warmer Marshall tone, Orange Drops sharper Fender like tone.
C3 22uf stock, change to 1uF to 3.3uf 25v. Remove Affects low frequency -3dB cutoff point (along with R9) Use lower values for H/Bs.
C4 22uf stock, change to 1uF to 3.3uf 25v. Remove OR 10uF reduce if it gets "farty". Affects low frequency -3dB cutoff point (along with R8) Use lower values for H/Bs.
C5 22uf stock, Change tom1000uf 25v. Helps smooth the EL84's distortion tone. Could go up to 2200uF. I used a panasonic FM 1000uf 16v here, there is only about 10 volts on the PCB at C5, so any where from 16v to 25v would be good.
C6 22uf stock, Increase to 47uF - 100uF if necessary Power supply filter - shouldn't really need to change on version 2 models unless you're real fussy about hum.
C9 22uf stock, Increase to 47uF - 100uF if necessary B1 Power supply filter.
Output Transformer: Change OT to Hammond 125DSE or 125ESE (Output Jack Mouser 550-10201 Solder to board for combo) Change OT to Hammond 125DSE or 125ESE (Output Jack, Mouser 550-10201 Solder to board for combo) Stock OT is 7.5k impedance, EL84 is 5k, mismatched impedance means lower output, less than optimum frequency response.
Thanks to Dr.Phil at 18watt.com
Out Here,
Robert
p.s. fletcher, I remember a long time ago you were trying to remember the "fuck you" riff from the Bowie album station to station, the song you were thinking of was, "Stay".
The guitar players on that song were, Earl Slick and Carlos Alomar(who at one time acted like a fukingasshole to me, fuku carlos u snotty queer). Also, Roy Bittan from the "e" street band played piano on that album.