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Author Topic: SM57 mod  (Read 26103 times)

Vertigo

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SM57 mod
« on: December 03, 2005, 07:29:44 PM »


Here it is after modification:

http://www.suckerhead.com/57mod.jpg

It sounds amazing... The difference is unbelievable!

-Lance
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compasspnt

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Re: SM57 mod
« Reply #1 on: December 03, 2005, 09:55:45 PM »

Well done Lance!  But how will you always be sure you grab the modified one, instead of a stock one?

I am doing one this week.

Will report.
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benn

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Re: SM57 mod
« Reply #2 on: December 04, 2005, 02:57:42 AM »

Thanks for sharing!

I needed that... it made me laugh out loud for the first time all day.

cheers!
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CHANCE

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Re: SM57 mod
« Reply #3 on: December 04, 2005, 02:11:45 PM »

One thing is for sure, you will never forget to put it away, or you will never lose it. You could probably spot that thing a block away. LOL
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Chance Pataki
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Joe Crawford

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Re: SM57 mod
« Reply #4 on: December 04, 2005, 02:28:05 PM »

compasspnt wrote on Sat, 03 December 2005 21:55

Well done Lance!  But how will you always be sure you grab the modified one, instead of a stock one?

I am doing one this week.

Will report.


Don't forget the red Rust-Oleum.  Its an integral part of the mod.
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compasspnt

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Re: SM57 mod
« Reply #5 on: December 04, 2005, 09:45:59 PM »

Trying to decide whether to paint or not...then, what colour?  Not sure if I should ape the red...
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Vertigo

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Re: SM57 mod
« Reply #6 on: December 04, 2005, 10:14:07 PM »

Quote:

what colour? Not sure if I should ape the red...


I hear blue really tightens up the low end...

-Lance
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Tim Halligan

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Re: SM57 mod
« Reply #7 on: December 05, 2005, 06:52:53 AM »

Red.

It's faster. It'll capture them pesky transients better.

Proof: Red cars go faster. Everyone says so.

If you want to to be really fast, Monza Red. Works on Ferrari's

Very Happy

You'll be needing a Focusrite Red 1 pre to catch all of that speedy sound...and a Red 3 to tame it. Nothing else will work.

If you must go Blue, you're covered also with the Blue range...

Cheers,
Tim
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Tidewater

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Re: SM57 mod
« Reply #8 on: December 05, 2005, 09:27:46 AM »

If you paint it blue, Skipper will sue you.

Lance, you say it sounds great, but you didn't mention anything about the expanded musicality.

I am concerned.


M
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floodstage

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Re: SM57 mod
« Reply #9 on: December 05, 2005, 11:29:03 AM »

Why not try that $500/ounce audiophile lacquer.

wahahahahaha!!!!!
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Tidewater

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Re: SM57 mod
« Reply #10 on: December 05, 2005, 12:02:14 PM »

It would look good with an audiofiled finish.

You could make the finish random roughed file marks, using an audio file. The finish would disrupt the air flow, once the sound wave passes the capsule, virtually sucking the sound into the mic. This is proven, and known as the Hendrix Effect(tm).

Anyone have a template for the best random pattern?


M
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Vertigo

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Re: SM57 mod
« Reply #11 on: December 05, 2005, 09:26:38 PM »

Quote:

Don't forget the red Rust-Oleum. Its an integral part of the mod.


Believe it or not, an upside down '57 fits into that Rust-Oleum lid like a glove - I'm not even kidding. I used it as a stand to hold the '57 while I was soldering it back together.

Try a regular '57 and a modded one on separate stands through your PA with some acoustic guitar or vocals. Definite WOW factor there... It's a different mic, but I can see how this could be very useful.

-Lance
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josh

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Re: SM57 mod
« Reply #12 on: December 06, 2005, 02:13:05 PM »

I did the mod on an SM58 and then used it on a guitar track (clean, les paul, rhythm track).  Sounded laid back and nice.  Didn't A/B it against anything.  I never liked SM5x mics on guitar cabs before so this may be the bomb.

compasspnt

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Re: SM57 mod
« Reply #13 on: December 06, 2005, 06:09:56 PM »

Just finished my first 57 trans-x mod.  It is actually pretty easy in general, but I tried a few things which I didn't know, before I started, whether they would be good ideas, or not.

Here's what I found out:

Unscrew the main body from the capsule body.  Screw IN (anti-clockwise) the XLR retaining screw and pull out the XLR connector with small pliers.  Cut the wires leading from the capsule towards the transformer.  Cut the wires coming from the transformer to the XLR.  Put the main body (NOT the capsule part, of course!) in boiling water for about 5 minutes.  The glue softens, and the transformer can be pulled out (use the metal brace-holder inside with needle-nose pliers) from the body.  There is some glue residue, but there is also a lot of white hard plastic gunk in there.  I got most of the glue out, but just left the plastic.  There will be a hole in the middle of it, and in the metal piece inside, plenty large enough for the wires. Marvel at the transformer; be amazed that you've been recording through one of these for many years.  (Compare it to one inside of a U-87...also marvel that you've been recording through BOTH of them for many years!)

Now is the time to paint, if you choose to do so.  Carefully cover the capsule with masking tape; first a piece (with both ends folded over for easy removal) across the top of the capsule.  Then two separate pieces around the capsule circumference, exposed end piece folded, being sure to cover everything capsule-wise from any paint spray.  I painted the two body pieces separated at first, with an old mic stand end and a pencil  holding them up (like fingers pointing inside one end), both "planted" in the ground outside, with a plastic garbage bag underneath. This way the paint will cover even the edges which will almost disappear when screwed back together.  Sprayed several coats, but I also tried to finish with a clear coat of lacquer spray.  That just messed everything up (globs), and I had to sand with 400 paper and start over.

Meanwhile, make a new wire harness from leftover Mogami wire.  The capsule end will say "A" on the hot wire.  The ground/earth is in the centre, a black wire.  The other one is...the other one (-).  Solder harness to the capsule end.  Thread harness through the hole in body centre, and solder to the XLR.  "A" (or "+," thanks to Lance "Vertigo" for this information) to pin 2.  Screw body together and put masking tape on the xlr connector, inside the cavity.  Paint one or two more thin coats for overall professional finished look after it is assembled.

When dry, listen to mic.

I just did a quick voice test, but I immediately noticed increased low end.  The volume was down about 10 dB or so, but that can be dealt with...anyway, how often do you have to pad a mic pre using one on snare anyway!  It sounds more like an SM7 to me, which I now suspect may be the same basic mic with a better transformer.

I will try this out on a session soon as it is, but also I am next going to try two other things:

1) Use the R
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Tidewater

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Re: SM57 mod
« Reply #14 on: December 06, 2005, 06:18:13 PM »

Nice! Exciting! I am interested in what other transformers do for it.

Snare monsters? Woohoo!


M
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