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 1 
 on: February 18, 2018, 05:54:41 pm 
Started by bicarbone - Last post by klaus
Not at all. This mic is a rare find and requires love and affection from anyone who would dare to dig inside and sort out the pattern switch. Go ahead and make the connection! Just be sure to report back what you found.

 2 
 on: February 18, 2018, 05:50:39 pm 
Started by bicarbone - Last post by Kai
are you repairing microphones yourself?
Not on regular base like Klaus, just from time to time, and this wouldn't be a problem. I've seen you're located in Swiss, so - I'm in Gemany.
But maybe we're hurting the forum rules, for going on you should PM me, or Klaus.
@Klaus, feel free to delete this posting if necessary.

 3 
 on: February 18, 2018, 02:12:18 pm 
Started by bicarbone - Last post by bicarbone
Sorry, I meant sending it to Herr Klaus! I don't know, are you repairing microphones yourself? No offense, hopefully.

 4 
 on: February 18, 2018, 08:49:32 am 
Started by bicarbone - Last post by Kai
...would it be possible to send it to you?
Yes.

 5 
 on: February 18, 2018, 06:42:22 am 
Started by bicarbone - Last post by bicarbone
Thank you Kai for the warning.

Thank you Klaus for the detailed instructions and the pic, very helpful. I thought it was going to be tricky to clean the contacts when I first opened the mic. What you write only confirms this.

I have the feeling it is actually beyond my skills to do it myself. Do you think I could ask any average to good tech to do it? Or would it be possible to send it to you?

Thanks again!

 6 
 on: February 17, 2018, 10:40:32 pm 
Started by aremos - Last post by klaus
Use a wind screen at all times for vocals.

Maybe not at all times, but when it's windy or when extreme circumstances call for extra capsule protection.

The WS87 lops off high frequency and transparency of sound. Besides, with time, it sheds foam which must not be allowed to settle on the capsule's surface.

The better idea for vocals: a stocking screen with a double layer of nylon hose as spit barrier.

 7 
 on: February 17, 2018, 06:55:43 pm 
Started by aremos - Last post by rmburrow
As, during my long career, I never used an U67, how does its sound compare to the 1st generation of U87's?

If the new U67's duplicate the original, you will leave your U87's in the locker when you hear the U67.  I've used U67's on classical ensembles, the "warm" tube sound is apparent.

Use a wind screen at all times for vocals.  I don't use my condenser mics on vocal, period.  Protect the capsule; big money to replace.  I assume the WS67 wind screen is extra.

As for the tube, the JJ Electronik EF806s has a dark anode.  Would be interesting to know the manufacturer of the EF86 used in the reissue.

Neumann was smart to start building tube mics again.  Hopefully the new U67's sell since buyers will get a new proven mic with a warranty.


 8 
 on: February 17, 2018, 11:36:10 am 
Started by aremos - Last post by boz6906
Very good, your point is well taken.

If one needs to manipulate a sample by lowering the pitch, having the f/s very high would keep the artifacts above audibility.  I've encounter that very problem; needing a nice explosion I lowered the pitch of a gun shot... then had to high-pass to remove weird rattily sound...

So clearly there is a need to record at higher f/s for many professionals.  But does it lead to a better musical experience for a straight acoustic recording?

I have seen research using same music sample as A, with B sent through 20kHz low pass.  Subjects picked A, the unfiltered sample.

But the tester provided no info on the filter topology, it could have easily been the problem.

 9 
 on: February 16, 2018, 11:25:54 pm 
Started by bicarbone - Last post by klaus
(...) One of them has only fig. 8 pattern working properly, doesn't switch to cardioid and emits a low end buzz when switched to omni.

Cleaning switch contacts to revive missing patterns on KM88 usually do not work: the "switches" are hand-made oddities used only in this model; they do not resemble common switch construction: four solid-core wires are inserted perpendicularly into the switch housing. They serve as the actual contacts which a wiper connects with in one of three positions.

The contact wires, some of which are connected to the head pins via equally stiff wires, are pushed into the ivory-colored plastic body, held in place by a single gold-colored slot screw. The ends of the contact wires are bent 90 to keep them from falling out or slipping through. With time, some of the wires may bend slightly out of contact range for the wiper, and stop conducting.

Two switches are visible in the photo. Foreground: the pattern switch; background, and out of focus: the -10dB switch.Both are the same type three-position switch, and both work on the same funky principle. In your case the -10dB switch may also have lost contact and attenuation can no longer be switched in. 

Simple remedy, if you are lucky: carefully pull, twist, and push the ends of the contact wires (their 90 bend is visible in the picture). Some of the wires may need to be de-soldered before you can move them around and try to free their surfaces of corrosion, or straighten them enough to re-establish contact.

A more likely and unfortunately not so easy remedy: carefully remove both switches, after unsoldering ALL connections, straighten the wires, and test for good contact in all three positions before re-installing.

Both remedies can be messy if you pull the wires out too far: they are not easy to reinsert into their slots.

P.S.:   Here are more inside pictures of the KM88.


 10 
 on: February 16, 2018, 06:58:50 pm 
Started by bicarbone - Last post by Kai
Be carefull not to spill contact cleaner into the circuit.
If possible unsolder the switch and clean it separately, and, yes, the pad is likely to be oxydated too.
Do NOT (NEVER!!!!!) spray into the circuit, use a wetted toothpick if unsoldering the switch is no option.
Stick pieces of tissue around to protect the circuit.
Wipe off as much of the cleaner as possible after, e.g. with tiny strips of paper.

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