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 on: May 16, 2017, 11:32:40 pm 
Started by DML - Last post by DML
Hi guys, thanks for the replies.  Yes this is 'old timer' territory, and I guess that makes me one!

To clarify: we need the cable that connects the DMR-2000 to the DTA-2000; it's shown in the DTA manual as Sony part number 1-558-117-11 'Cord with Connectors (33-36)'.  One end is as per my photo; the other is 36-pin Amphenol. 

We don't need the Cannon-D Status cable or anything else.  Or the DMR-4000 to DTA cable; that's a standard Amphenol which makes life easy for DMR-4000 users!

I'm hoping that an existing Mastering facility using DMR-2000's (not 4000's) can help.

 on: May 16, 2017, 07:42:46 am 
Started by Mikeyod - Last post by Mikeyod
Yes that was what I was thinking probably both Ic5 & 7 maybe I'll change 7 first. No, Murphy will be one up on me no matter what I do.     ; 0)

     Yes my boards have the .81 updates.

 on: May 15, 2017, 09:12:42 pm 
Started by Mikeyod - Last post by radardoug
Is your board modded per the asterisks to the .81 version? Are those 100ks there?

 on: May 15, 2017, 08:55:37 pm 
Started by Mikeyod - Last post by radardoug
Its very complex, hard to look at the drawing on the computer and take all of it in. The left two fets look like they mute the line amp. So the right two do the input changeover. I would suggest scoping those outputs from the fets to see where there are d.c. shifts. You will still probably have to change at least two before you get it right, by Murphys law!

 on: May 15, 2017, 09:01:18 am 
Started by Mikeyod - Last post by Mikeyod
Well it wasn't that cap. So I found some SD211DE on ebay waiting on them I suppose.
I'm thinking it should be either IC5 or IC7 as it looks like CA-DATA4 switches between the inputs.

Am I looking at that correctly ?

And thanks to Doug Jane for taking the time !!!!  It is appreciated !

 on: May 14, 2017, 10:53:28 am 
Started by Mikeyod - Last post by Mikeyod
Oh yeah, I also removed those damn dip switches and put in jumpers. Those things caused more trouble than they are worth.
         I did just notice I missed that 100uf (C12) cap under the heat sink for the two transistors. I'll change that, it's in the signal path.

 on: May 13, 2017, 09:49:30 pm 
Started by Mikeyod - Last post by radardoug
Downloaded the manual. Looks like those fet switches could be suspect, but first check the dip switch settings. Some of the switch combinations have conflicts.

 on: May 13, 2017, 08:57:42 pm 
Started by Mikeyod - Last post by radardoug
Solid alis are usually pretty good. But the click will be a d.c.offset somewhere. Could be a switch chip. The best way is put it on an extender card and follow the audio path with a scope. The 810s etc used Analog Devices Multiplying Dacs quite a bit, could be one of those?

 on: May 13, 2017, 07:06:26 pm 
Started by Mikeyod - Last post by Mikeyod
When I first got the machine I recapped all the electrolytic caps( and all the RIFAs) the only other ones on the board are solid aluminum or ceramic. I haven't ever seen any of them go. Have you experienced any problems with them?

 on: May 13, 2017, 04:43:59 pm 
Started by Mikeyod - Last post by radardoug
Any caps in the signal path? Thats a likely culprit.

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