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 21 
 on: July 05, 2017, 01:37:33 am 
Started by mutterd - Last post by klaus
The part Uwe cites should fit perfectly for all 21mm housing tubes (KM8x, KMR8x).

 22 
 on: July 04, 2017, 11:51:32 pm 
Started by mutterd - Last post by uwe ret
A badge is not listed as a spare part for the KM 83/84/85 models, but I believe the same logo badge is used for the models KMR 81/82, and that part number was 061474.

 23 
 on: July 04, 2017, 05:02:50 am 
Started by mutterd - Last post by klaus
Hello Tim,
From your description you may have received the flat-radius U87/A badges, rather than those with the more pronounced KM8x
I do not recommend trying to reshape the radius of Neumann badges: bending them evenly to sit flush on your housing tube can cause cracks in the aluminum.

Once you have made sure you have the correct ones, here are some tricks for mounting them: 

* First, do a trial-fit: carefully line up the badge's nipples with the two corresponding holes in the housing tube and press the badge into place.

* If everything looks nice and flush, put a dab of E6000 adhesive (http://eclecticproducts.com/products/e6000.html) on the center of the backside of the badge, and press the badge in place. If E6000 is not available, any type of adhesive that will come off without leaving a residue with do.

* Once the adhesive has set, use a round, fine metal file or Dremel tool grinding bit and file off the parts of the nipples that protrude into the housing tube; they are too long on current production badges to clear the amp's protective plastic cover, and will rip it, unless you file them flush with the surface of the housing tube.

Best of luck!
KH

 24 
 on: July 04, 2017, 02:32:07 am 
Started by mutterd - Last post by mutterd
Hey Fellas, I could use some advice.

I got a set of new purple badges for my KM84's and for whatever reason they don't seem to sit flat against the body tube. its like the radius they are bent around is larger than the body of the mic - but they are definitely not the larger U87/U67 size. In reality - its more like they are just bent instead of properly formed to the radius.

I bought 3 badges and they were all the same - I contacted the distributer and returned them and they sent me 3 new ones, assured me they were for the KM84 sized body tube - but again - they were all the same as before, not quite right.

I have a black badge that came off one of my very early KM84's and it sits perfect, and on another late 70's one a purple that also sits perfect - but on these new ones if the middle is flush, each of the edges are raised about 1mm or 1/16"...

so there must be a trick to getting them radiused correctly - what are you guys doing?

also - is epoxy the best option?

thanks so much!
Timothy


 25 
 on: July 02, 2017, 04:32:36 pm 
Started by afterlifestudios - Last post by klaus
Polarized electrolytics all the way!

 26 
 on: July 02, 2017, 04:16:53 pm 
Started by afterlifestudios - Last post by afterlifestudios
Thanks again.  And do I need to replace C19 with a rant, or can that be electrolytic too?

John

 27 
 on: July 02, 2017, 01:41:40 pm 
Started by afterlifestudios - Last post by klaus
I am not sure, because I got the picture from the internet.
Double C19 and try a 47mfd as the big capacitor between the stand-offs. Voltage rating should be at least 50V.

But let us know first what your troubleshooting revealed!

 28 
 on: July 02, 2017, 12:46:27 pm 
Started by afterlifestudios - Last post by afterlifestudios
Thank you Klaus. What capacitance and voltage rating is that big electrolytic?  And what would you recommend increasing c19 to?

Thanks again,
John

 29 
 on: July 02, 2017, 02:49:04 am 
Started by afterlifestudios - Last post by klaus
John,
Below is a prudent procedure to isolate where the problem might have originated.

First, try to determine whether this in a capsule or a mic processor problem. Usually that's pretty easy to do:
In your case, you put on a pair of headphones, and breathe onto the capsule (with the mic in cardioid, to limit variables at this stage of troubleshooting). If the volume or nature of the discharge noise can be influenced by your breath, you need look no further.

For example, if the frequency of the popping suddenly increases with the added humidity you introduce to the capsule, the culprit is most likely capsule contamination.

If the discharge sounds remain steady, regardless of your moist breath, then it's likely a component on the mic amp that caused the noise. I have found that the filter capacitors, especially C19 on the DC board (brown Tantalum in the picture), to be a consistent suspect with the C414EB: if you replace it, you should increase the capacitance, and, as you can see on the picture, you can even solder a huge electrolytic capacitor between (+) and (-) of the supply voltage stand-off posts. Replacing C19 usually gets rid of low frequency motor-boating, but that may not necessarily be your issue.

But before you solder around on the boards, and wildly start substituting components, first determine whether it's a capsule or amp issue.

 30 
 on: July 01, 2017, 07:27:03 pm 
Started by afterlifestudios - Last post by afterlifestudios
One of my c414eb (original brass ring ck12 capsule) has developed a problem.  I use the mics frequently, and during a session this one began exhibiting intermittent "pop" sounds every few seconds.  (pop.......pop..pop.......pop..........)

I believe I have isolated the problem somewhat.  The noise was happening in all patterns, so in cardioid, I swapped the leads from the front and back diaphragms (effectively putting the back diaphragm in cardiod), and the noise persisted, so I'm assuming (possibly incorrectly) that the capsule is not the source of the noise.

The "popping" sound is also attenuated by the pad, and filtered by the rolloff.  So it seems unlikely to be one of the tantalum caps on the amplifier board as they are downstream from the pad and filters.. In fact, C1 is the only capacitor before the filter and pad switches, so I feel like I should replace it?  There is also a tantalum (C19) on the DC to DC converter board.  I intend to replace that too.

Do you feel like my diagnosis and trouble shooting are valid and that I should proceed with capacitor replacement?  If so, could you recommend values and types etc for C1 and C19?  And will I want to replace those same caps in the other c414eb to maintain sonic similarity?  Or will the effect be minimal?

If not, could you recommend any other steps I should take to isolate the problem?

Thanks in advance,
John






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