Microphone diaphragms aren't so fragile(1). The big problem with this issue is that most people don't know what's inside the microphone, past the diaphragm, are terrified that they'll damage something, and as a result get all spooky and do more damage than they otherwise would. So they get shaky hands and oops, there goes the q-tip through the diaphragm.
(1) Note, some early Neumann and AKG diaphragms were made of PVC rather than PET and are subject to embrittlement due to loss of plasticizer compounds. These diaphragms *are* fragile.
Microphones are cleaned all the time (when, and only when needed) _by people who know what they are doing_ and can afford to make mistakes. You have to allow yourself the mindset that if you break it, you can afford to fix or replace it. Otherwise, leave it alone. The gap between the diaphragm and the backplate varies from 10 microns to about 50 microns (that's 2/1000 of an inch maximum). Any pressure you put on the diaphragm with any device like cotton, or a swab, will crash it into the backplate. Get over it. So will a door slam, or a sharp snare drum hit. If this causes damage, the diaphragm is already deteriorated to the point where it can't be depended on for studio service. Make no assumptions about the diaphragm unless you're able to check them yourself. There is a lot of junk out there, particularly now that old studio mics that were once tossed in a pile are worth $5000 and up. I have seen a lot of mics that sellers claimed were "factory original" that were in fact rather recently re-made (and the whole gamut from fraudulent junk to factory-equal-or-better).
The accumulation of spittle and smoke on a large-diaphragm vocal mic is often at least as heavy as the diaphragm itself. This causes readily audible changes in response, and never (in my experience) for the better. That it doesn't make it sound like an entirely different microphone is proof that diaphragm mass isn't everything (in fact, the main controlling component is the air cushion behind the diaphragm, but that's a topic for another rant.) You need to remove this if the mic is going to sound right. You also need to be sure that all external surfaces that may have accumulated conductive deposits are clean so that you don't get fizzy noises whenever the weather is damp. Particularly troublesome in this regard are the Neumann and other mics that have a conductive spot in the middle of the diaphragm, with an un-metallized band between it and the diaphragm support ring. A thin film of spit, atmospheric crud, smoke, etc. condenses on this ring-shaped band of clear plastic, and it doesn't take much to bridge the gap. This deposit is often hydrophilic -- when dry the mic works fine, but when breathed on, the moisture from your breath combines with the salts in the deposit to form a conductive bridge.
Before you begin, scrub your hands absolutely clean with some harsh, oil-removing soap. The object of the exercise is to avoid leaving conductive or hydrophilic (water-attracting) deposits on the insulators.
My solvents of choice are isopropyl alcohol and distilled water. For really awful cases, xylene is the backup solvent. I use a wooden-handled cotton swab with an extra layer, about 1/2" thick, of long fiber cotton (rolled cotton from the drugstore) wound on over the tip. Use a #2 or so sable artists' watercolor brush, yes, the $20 kind, to remove the dust you can brush off. Getting the brush a little damp by breathing on it (or better, putting it in the steam from a tea-kettle so you don't make the deposits worse) will make more dust stick to it. Almost all remaining deposits can be removed with just water. Take your time, and keep the cotton damp but not dripping so you have some control. When you think you have most of the junk off, STOP. All solvents including the distilled water should be kept in tightly closed bottles; pour out what you need into a dish and throw it out when you're done. If the water isn't getting all the crud, add a little alcohol (this is 91 or 99% isopropyl alcohol, with no other chemicals in it, preferably lab technical grade at least but USP is good enough if at least 91%) to the water, about 50% is usually enough. You use long fiber cotton so you can see all the fibers you left behind, and remove them before you reassemble the mic. On Neumann and other large diaphragm mics with the clear band of plastic diaphragm between the metallized center spot and the support ring, be particularly careful that this band gets clearn. Often, you'll see some particle caught between the diaphragm and the backplate making a sort of "tent." You have to make a decision -- are you going to tear the whole capsule apart, or send it to a good mic lab, or buy a new one. Most of the screwed-together mic capsules can be taken apart and put back together with no special tools except screwdrivers that really fit the screws, and pin wrenches that fit the threaded rings. Make a drawing of how it came apart, it has to go back together the same way. Note however that some of these have the diaphragm tension held constant only by the pressure of the ring -- no glue (these cannot be disassembled safely unless you have a means to re-tension the diaphragm). Measure the capacitances between each terminal and every other terminal (for instance, a CK12 capsule has two diaphragms and two backplates, that's four capacitances to measure) and confirm when you put it back together than you're within a few percent of where you started.
Modern diaphragms are made of mylar (PET, polyethylene terephthalate) or PC (polycarbonate) and don't deteriorate much. However the metallization may or may not be adhered well to the plastic. If you see pieces of it coming off, or getting thin, STOP. A little missing gold won't hurt, but if you lose some more it's not a microphone anymore. Metal diaphragm mics use aluminum, nickel, cobalt alloys, stainless steel or titanium, all of which can react with junk in the air to form corrosion products, which are often conductive. If you see pinholes or cracks in the diaphragm, STOP, use it as is if you can, otherwise get a new one.
Disclaimer and notice: Obviously these are delicate devices easily damaged by people who don't know what they are doing. I'm not responsible if you use this information and damage your (or someone else's) microphone. Only you can make the determination whether you're qualified to attempt such procedures as I have described here. Also, I don't do microphone repairs or "upgrades" -- there are several people in the US and Europe who do, you're on your own in selecting one.
Be patient, pay attention, take your time...
Josephson Engineering
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